A Grand Day Out

by Hannah Rosenkrans, University of Montana

A bluebird day opened up the Vaughn Lewis Glacier, revealing crevasses, snow bridges, and bergschrunds previously hidden by the clouds and rain. The location was perfect for the goal of the day: learn how to rappel. We roped up to approach the crevasses and stopped in the wanded-off safe area, where we dug strong anchors in the dense, wet snow.

Mary and Danielle make sure their harnesses are in order.

Mary and Danielle make sure their harnesses are in order.


Hannah is pumped to go rappelling.

Hannah is pumped to go rappelling.

As you first back down into a crevasse, a symphony of wet, dripping sounds engulfs your ears. Nervous hands guiding the rope through the rappel device quickly find a rhythm as excitement and awe take over, crampons sticking fast into the wall.

Luc makes rappelling look easy.

Luc makes rappelling look easy.


Rappelling into a crevasse feels like going back in time. The compacted snow at the surface gives way to the layers of ice that have hidden from the sun. The thin crack at the surface conceals the overhanging lip and chasm below. Smooth walls line this icy world, exposing the processes of compaction and metamorphism that affect snow beneath the surface. The sunlight only makes it halfway down the walls, leaving the imagination to wonder just how far the dark holes descend. Ice sculptures etched from dripping water and the rare glimpses of sunlight expose the juxtaposed hardness and fragility of ice.

Lindsey gets a little hungry during her adventure in the crevasse.

Lindsey gets a little hungry during her adventure in the crevasse.

Kim is fearless down in the crevasse.

Kim is fearless down in the crevasse.


Ascending out of the crevasse back up to the surface, looking back one last time into the shadowed depths, there is a feeling of reassurance – reassurance that there will always be places to marvel at, wondrous worlds tucked just out of sight, and those who willingly venture into their realms.

Laurissa is having a great time rappelling!

Laurissa is having a great time rappelling!

Camp 18 Opening

by Barbara Burger, Technische Universitaet Muenchen

The first trail party to Camp 18 (Kate, Newt, Ben, Mariah, Hannah, Mike and I) arrived after a long day in a whiteout with the first snowfall of the trip. It was very windy and rainy, but the view from camp was amazing. We skied down the hill to the camp and saw the big icefall of the Vaughan Lewis Glacier on the left and the amazing Gilkey Trench in front of us. The Gilkey Glacier has beautiful alternating wave crests called ogives that appear as dark and light bands of ice. When I saw the view for the first time, I knew that Camp 18 would be my favorite camp of the icefield.

The view from Camp 18: the Vaughan Lewis Icefall and the Gilkey Trench

The view from Camp 18: the Vaughan Lewis Icefall and the Gilkey Trench

 After we put our backpacks into the sleeping areas and changed out of our wet clothes, we went into the cook shack, where we were in for a big surprise. Imagine all the chaos a few mice and rats can create during the year the camp is not occupied. The rats destroyed some food packages and chewed through an important part of the stove, which delayed dinner. Luckily, Ben and Newt repaired the stove very quickly, but while they were occupied we started sweeping the cook shack. The next two days would be filled with similar activities: we swept all the buildings, washed all the dishes (plates, pans, and pots - it took us one entire day), bleached all the shelves, sorted and organized the food from previous years, and unpacked the books in the Benstitute (the library building that Ben Partan built).

The wood stove area before cleaning.

The wood stove area before cleaning.

After the first day, we got help from Jon, Jenny and Gillian, who did the traverse from Camp 9. It was a lot of hard work to clean everything, but it gave me a new perspective on our camps. It was good to see in person how much work goes into opening a camp - I now appreciate more than ever how nice and clean our camps are when the majority of people arrive. Of course, we also had a lot of fun during the cleaning days. We were a really fun group and had plenty of free time to cook together (on one day we had crepes, cinnamon rolls, homemade bread and pizza), sit next to the wood stove and talk, or just look at the amazing scenery outside.

The C-18 Opening Crew: Hannah, Mariah, Jenny, Gillian, Mike, and Barbara

The C-18 Opening Crew: Hannah, Mariah, Jenny, Gillian, Mike, and Barbara

JIRPmas

by Mary Radue

Ever since the beginning of JIRP we’ve been hearing about the magical holiday of JIRPmas. On July 25 all members of JIRP would gather together, eat delicious food, and exchange homemade gifts. We listened to stories about memorable JIRPmas presents of the past and eagerly looked forward to this icefield-specific holiday.

Unfortunately, on JIRPmas day we found ourselves dispersed across the icefield. Some people were stationed at Camp 10 maintaining normal camp life, while others had ventured off to the Northwest Branch of the Taku Glacier to dig mass balance pits in the cold rain. On the 25th I found myself traversing to Camp 18 with Ben, Newt, Hannah, Mike, Kate, and Barbara to open the camp before all the other trail parties arrived.

We left Camp 10 in the fog and began our trek to Camp 18. The fog turned into a drizzle, the drizzle into sleet, and sleet into snow. Even though we couldn’t see the surrounding mountains, travelling through the impressive snowflakes landing on our packs and skis and noses was truly magical. I felt lost in winter even though it was the middle of the summer. I grew up in Maryland, where snow on Christmas is by no means a guarantee, so when I saw fresh snow six months after Christmas in the middle of summer, I could not believe my luck. We sang JIRPmas songs (composed by altering Christmas songs ever so slightly) and continued on our way to Camp 18.

Snowy traverse to Camp 18, photo by Barbara Burger

Snowy traverse to Camp 18, photo by Barbara Burger

Thankfully, Kate (our camp manager) decided that it was necessary to celebrate JIRPmas formally on July 31st when we were for the most part united at Camp 18. Everyone drew names out of a tin can for the gift exchange and got to work making presents. The time, effort, and thoughtfulness that people put into their presents were astounding. It was great to see everyone’s different approaches, ideas, and hidden artistic talents.

On JIRPmas day (round two) we ate a JIRPmas feast of potatoes, fresh salad, lentils and beans, with pumpkin pie for dessert. After the mass balance trail party got back late, we gathered around the JIRPmas tree constructed with ski poles and paper ornaments. The sunset illuminated the mountains rosy pink and the mountains beyond the Gilkey Trench looked like shadows stretching on forever. With the stunning landscape as our backdrop, Kelly dressed in a bright orange jump suit and passed out our gifts.

Everyone gathered around the JIRPmas tree while Kelly handed out gifts.  photo by Barbara Burger

Everyone gathered around the JIRPmas tree while Kelly handed out gifts.  photo by Barbara Burger

Some people received thoughtful gifts like a JIRP survival kit and a mailbox full of compliments. Other presents were perfectly tailored to the person, like a hat to help fight nose bleeds or a model snow machine. Some presents were outright ridiculous and others were undeniably beautiful, like a painting of a mountain landscape. It was wonderful to see how well we have gotten to know each other and how close we have become. Even though our resources were extremely limited, people produced some amazing gifts that were full of thoughtfulness and care. JIRPmas allowed us to recognize, appreciate, and solidify the strong bonds that we have made while at JIRP. It is rare to live in such a strong, close-knit community and I will miss the ability to share such joyful moments with so many wonderful people when JIRP is over.

Danielle shows off her anti-nose bleed hat.  photo by Maya Smith

Danielle shows off her anti-nose bleed hat.  photo by Maya Smith