The Gang Builds a Hot Tub

by Lindsey Gulbrandsen, State University of New York at Oneonta

On July 12th I arrived at Camp 10 along with thirteen others after an unforgettably cold and wet two-day traverse. After a brief recovery period, we all quickly adjusted to life at C10. Unfortunately, we brought the wet and windy Camp 17 weather with us. While we waited for the other trail parties and our science equipment to arrive, we filled our time with laundry, lectures and cribbage. By the fourth day in camp with no other trail party arrivals we had gotten more creative with our ways to occupy time. After a brief think tank session on nunatak hot tub logistics we were ready to begin construction. We carefully chose a location below the water supply for the tub. The crew spent several hours moving rocks to build up the tub walls, and then attempted to channelize the melt water along garbage bags and tarps. To maximize comfort in the hot tub, we lined the rock walls with moss and installed several rock slab seats beneath the tarp. After a few hours of construction, we sat back and relaxed in the tub while it filled.

Admiring our work.  Photo by Emily Stevenson

Admiring our work.  Photo by Emily Stevenson

All that the tub was missing was a swim up bar, some jets and maybe some clean hot water. It was an amazing day with great people and great views.

Enjoying the views.  From left:  Zach, Luc, Lindsey, and Laurissa.  Photo by Emily Stevenson

Enjoying the views.  From left:  Zach, Luc, Lindsey, and Laurissa.  Photo by Emily Stevenson

After spending 7+ hours sunbathing in our mud puddle we hiked down the rocks to greet the incoming trail party. Being reunited was the perfect end to another great day out on the icefield.

Photo by Saskia Gindraux

Photo by Saskia Gindraux

The Wet Traverse: Adventures of Trail Party 1

by Elizabeth Kenny, Bowdoin College

After over a week of safety training, it was finally time to traverse to Camp 10. Everyone was excited to see a new part of the icefield. We waited in anticipation for a helicopter to come in and transport some of our gear to Camp 10 so that select staffers could open camp before we arrived. There was a days delay due to the weather, but the following day at 5 in the morning the first trail party (Kirsten, Lindsey, Elias, Luc, Alex Z, and I along with safety staff Zach and Jon) was off. It was a perfect morning, with blue sky and amazing snow conditions for skiing!

Kirsten, Elias, and Alex beginning the traverse.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Kirsten, Elias, and Alex beginning the traverse.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Excitement was high as we rapidly made our way down the Lemon Creek Glacier towards an area where the snow had melted away, revealing beautiful blue glacier ice. As it was a bit slippery, we took off our skis and slowly crossed.

Crossing the ice on the Lemon Creek glacier.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Crossing the ice on the Lemon Creek glacier.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Looking back on the Lemon Creek glacier.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Looking back on the Lemon Creek glacier.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

However, as we began our ascent of Nugget Ridge, ominous clouds began to move in from Juneau. As we split into two four-man rope teams in order to safely cross a crevasse zone, the storm was drawing nearer. It soon became so socked in that you could hardly see the person in front of you on the rope. As the first party, we were responsible for setting a safe track for the following trail parties. This proved to be a difficult task, and we ended up going in a very large loop, spending nearly two hours skiing roped up. The rain was coming down harder and the wind was picking up as we made our way down the other side of the ridge.

Roped up while making our way through a crevasse zone in a white out.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Roped up while making our way through a crevasse zone in a white out.  Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

This was the type of weather we had been hoping to avoid. Had we known that it was coming, we probably would not have started our traverse that day. However, weather on the icefield is unpredictable. At that point our only option was to continue on to a cache that had been set up to support our night of camping on the glacier. It was slow going as we made our way across Death Valley in the rain, with sun cups on the snow significantly restricting our progress. Finally we reached the Norris Icefall, our last obstacle before the cache. Not one item of clothing was dry as we roped up once again, but we did so quickly in an effort to keep everyone warm. After reaching the top of the icefall, it was a short ski to the cache, where we were finally able to stop for the night. After almost 15 hours on the trail everyone was exhausted, so after a quick dinner of chili it was off to bed. The second trail party arrived at camp shortly after us, equally wet and tired.

                  Unfortunately, the tents we had were no match for the pouring rain outside. The next morning the majority of us woke up just as wet, if not wetter, than we had been the night before. It was still raining, and once again poor visibility prevented us from seeing any of the surrounding icefield. We learned that the next trail parties decided not to head out that day due to the weather, but once again, we had no choice but to power on. After scarfing down some oatmeal and hot chocolate, both groups began to travel together on the last stretch of the traverse. It felt like we were on a white treadmill, with nothing visible except for the skiers in front of us. Despite the cold and rain, everyone remained in relatively high spirits. The day was long and tiring, but just when we thought we couldn’t go any farther, Camp 10 appeared through the fog!

Camp 10 finally appearing! Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Camp 10 finally appearing! Photo by Elizabeth Kenny

Cheers of excitement arose as we made our way to the base of the nunatak. The short climb to camp felt like quite an ordeal after skiing so much for the past two days, but at least we were finally there. Wet clothes were quickly shed and hung up to dry as we moved into our new bunks, and after a warm and filling dinner followed by a quick camp tour, we could finally rest at our new home. This traverse was a classic example of Type B fun on the icefield – it may not have been fun while we were doing it, but it is certainly something we will never forget.

Learning to Ski

by Randall

During the first week at Camp 17, we spent the majority of our time learning all the skills necessary to cross the Juneau Icefield, including everything from tying knots and crevasse rescue to to  ski practice. JIRPers come from all over, so skiing ability varies greatly. Some people have never stepped into skis in their entire life, while others are powerful alpine skiers or graceful tele-skiers. Needless to say, ski practice was hilarious and there was non-stop carnage. The first day was full of yard-sales, blood, sweat, and tears.

Ski practice on the Lemon Creek glacier

Ski practice on the Lemon Creek glacier

The former alpine skiers are now in tele set-ups, which is like learning a foreign language. Soft leather boots and free heels make for squirrelly skiing when you’re not used to it. A few of the staffers, are dedicated and experienced tele-skiers (including the JIRP director, Dr. Jeff Kavanaugh, who is probably the best tele-skier on the glacier… and the one with the biggest ego).  They have demonstrated the skill and finesse necessary to execute a proper tele turn. After a week of ski practice, everyone can competently ski down any intermediate slope.

Fortunately, there is no lack of ski slopes at Camp 17. Fifty feet to the east of camp is the Lemon Creek Glacier, which offers an excellent bunny slope to start working on pizza-french fry transitions. To the west is the Ptarmigan Glacier (also known as the “Gnarmigan”), a much more formidable slope.  It’s steep and covers about 1000 vertical feet. At age 79, Alf Pinchak skis the Ptarmigan every morning before anyone else even wakes up, making all us youths feel lazy.

Looking down the "Gnarmigan" glacier

Looking down the "Gnarmigan" glacier

                  As a die-hard snowboarder, looking around at the lines on the surrounding peaks is a bit tantalizing. I haven’t skied in six years so I’m way out of my element stepping into two planks rather than one. Hills that would have been like a walk in a park on a snowboard now seem like gigantic mountains and I spend half the day falling and getting back up. At the end of ski practice, I’m usually soaked to the bone with snow filling every bit of clothing I’m wearing. That said; it’s definitely fun to be learning something all over again.

 Now that we are all feeling somewhat comfortable in the tele set-ups, most afternoons consist of ski practice on the Ptarmigan (weather dependent). It’s a great way to practice turns when the day’s activities are done. Along the ridge where the Ptarmigan starts, there are various lines down, some steep and some shallow, which allows for skiers of all levels to practice.

Alf Pinchak (age 79) on the right carrying his skies to the Lemon Creek Glacier while a student struggles to get up.

Alf Pinchak (age 79) on the right carrying his skies to the Lemon Creek Glacier while a student struggles to get up.

French Alex, Hannah, and Kim during ski practice on the Ptarmigan on a beautiful day

French Alex, Hannah, and Kim during ski practice on the Ptarmigan on a beautiful day

Notes from a JIRP Alum

by Jay Ach

As a JIRP alum, returning for the first time since 1973 and 1975, I am struck by the similarities to what I remember from some 40 years ago.

Weather has kept us at Camp 17 for longer than expected, so I can only judge from past and present Camp 17 experiences.  The infrastructure here is almost identical; some buildings have been changed or extended to a small degree, but it’s all immediately recognizable.  Certainly on this side of the Icefield, the weather has not improved over the decades.  All field parties were supposed to be in Camp 10 by now, or at least well on their way.  Instead, two parties that left in a brief spell of good weather are completing their two day traverse to Camp 10 today, while all others are holed up at Camp 17, waiting out horizontal rain driven by 50+ MPH winds.  The new flag raised over the camp two weeks ago has been blown to shredded tatters.

Student spirits are far from tattered, however.  Days of comprehensive glacier travel training, including knot tying, belaying, prussiking, self-arresting, building crevasse rescue systems, and learning or improving cross-country and telemark skiing transformed a group of students from new acquaintances to a group of competent scientist/mountaineers constantly on the lookout for each other.  Staff personnel is, of course 100% different from when I was here before, but exhibit the same awesome degree of competence leavened with abundant irreverence that I experienced as a student.  The last two days of being all but confined indoors in a couple of small buildings due to inclement weather would cause any normal group of strangers to go bonkers.  Given the sense of team that has formed, though, spirits have stayed incredibly upbeat and the tremendous good humor and frequent bouts of hilarity have been wonderful.

The sense of group, of being a team on an expedition, and watching out for the good of the group as opposed to one’s own self-interest, was one of my most enduring life lessons from my previous JIRP experiences.  It is great to see that the same lessons are still being transmitted to students decades after my own experiences as a JIRP student.

The science is still way cool too . . .

Introduction to Digging Mass Balance Pits

by Carmen Braun   

Today marked the first day we weren’t all doing safety training!  While some JIRPers continued doing some safety training, others expanded our horizons to probing and surveying, and nine of us began digging mass balance pits.    After the standard morning time activities (wake up call, breakfast, and work duties), we started getting ready.  Considering the fact that most of us were already wet after our work duties, we all knew we were in for a cold, wet day. 

Those of us responsible for digging mass balance pits were divided up into two groups, each with a safety staff member to show us the ropes.  We skied north down the glacier for about half an hour before arriving at the dig location. The other group’s location was a bit closer to camp.  Upon arrival, we got to work right away, after covering our packs with our tarps in a futile attempt to keep them from getting wetter.  We dug, rotating positions from time to time, for about 4.5 hours.  That warms you up quickly!  My group was really quiet; I spent most of the time in a zone where the only thought in my head was where to shovel.  It was very meditative work.  The other group was chatting most of the time, which I’m sure created quite a different atmosphere. At one point, Dougal, one of the guys in the other group, started yelling out names of things he hates as he chopped at the snow. In these cold and wet conditions, I was very happy to just dig.   However, in nice weather, I can see how digging with a little music and good conversation would be great as well.

As for the actual digging of a pit, everyone starts in the pit until snow starts to accumulate around the edges.  At that point, one moves to clear the rim of snow and the other four start focusing on one quadrant each.  We would rotate from time to time at the beginning, but I think I spent about 3 hours in the same quadrant after that.  Eventually, you have one quadrant that is very deep, and then the other three become progressively shallower.  The one in the lowest quadrant eventually starts passing snow to people in higher ones so they don’t need to throw the snow up and out of the pit. 

This has been a low accumulation year, so we only had to dig to a depth of about 2.25 meters to find last year’s layer.  It was really fun to finally see all the structures people had been telling us about, like the ice lenses and the layer of less dense depth hoar that formed above the much more dense snow from last year.  We finished our pit before the other group, but they had all the scientific equipment so we skied up to their pit to grab that.  Most of our boots were at the point where water sloshed from the toes to heels and back each time the angle of our feet changed.  My overmitts had started retaining water long before, so each time I brought my poles up water splashed over my fingers.  We ended up just separating into two new groups, one to head back to camp, and one to do the measurements because so many of us were very cold at that point. 

I am pretty sure we all enjoyed ourselves, at least in the type B version of fun.  Below are a couple quotes from other students.

“If it’s raining it sucks” – Jenny

“I like it, it’s my friend” – Matt

“No matter how vertical you think the walls are, they’re not.” – Kelly

“A good way to stay warm in the freezing cold rain.” – Randall

“Chat through adversity.” - Randall

“Good way to get in shape.  Once we get to the dry parts I think it will be really fun!” – Natalie

“If I ever want to become an ice sculptor, digging mass balance pits will prepare me well.” – Danielle

Erik talked about how it’s the only way to really see the inside of a glacier, in a way we are evolutionarily developed to understand. He compared it to probing, which is completely uninformative for the senses we use.

“Sometimes it’s like highway construction, one person is working and five people are watching” – Tristan

(This was in reference to a pit we dug where the last annual layer was only 92 cm below the surface.  It ended up being about 1m3; we fit 7 people in there and took a couple selfies once all the science was done!)

Fourth of July on the Icefield

by Danielle Beaty

Waking up to a socked in C-17.

Waking up to a socked in C-17.

I woke up this Independence Day to a completely socked in Camp 17. It wasn’t the typical Fourth of July weather to be expected, with near white out conditions and continual drizzle, but we made the most of it nonetheless. We spent the day traversing across the Lemon Creek Glacier in rope teams of four, and attending lectures about wilderness medicine and virtual field realities that we will help create on the Juneau Icefield.

Rope team practice

Rope team practice

For dinner, we ate American classics including mac and cheese, baked beans, spam, and homemade bread.  For dessert, we had peach cobbler and cake topped with blue m&ms, powdered sugar and jam to look like the American flag. After dinner, the sky cleared so several JIRPers and I hit the Gnarmigan for tele-skiing under the setting sun (The Gnarmigan is the appropriately renamed Ptarmigan Glacier for its gnarly ski run). Back home, I have a family tradition of skiing Mt. Hood each Fourth of July, so I was happy to be continuing the tradition. The sky was a brilliant orange color, and the view as we skied down was glorious. The snow was like soft spring corn, excellent for practicing my telemark turns.

The most lovely Fourth of July cake!

The most lovely Fourth of July cake!

Skiing to celebrate America!

Skiing to celebrate America!


 Lindsey and I prepared a “Fourth of July Dance Party Playlist”, so after the day’s activities were through we cleared the cook shack of tables and chairs, and danced the night away to very American-themed music. Perhaps the highlight of Fourth of July on the icefield was Luna’s rendition of Miley Cyrus’s “Wrecking Ball” music video, using a climbing rope and prusik hitches whose primary purpose is for crevasse rescue. Though Fourth of July on the icefield wasn’t necessarily traditional, it was one for the history books and my most memorable one yet.

Dancing like champions

Dancing like champions


Billionth Annual JIRP Knot Tying Competition

by Laurissa Christie

Crazy Costumes + Laughter + Knot Tying + Unpredictable Behaviour + JIRP Love = Great Night.

We’ve been doing a lot of safety training here at Camp 17 to get ready to cross the Icefield safely. The staff has made training fun, but stayed extremely serious until the night of the knot tying competition. The students were all divided into competing teams to compete in categories such as best dressed knot, quickest knot tying, and most stylish.

The competition looks fierce!

The competition looks fierce!

One of the highlights of the knot tying competition was the selection of costumes.  Before the competition, we quickly dressed in the most ridiculous funny outfits we could obtain given our limited wardrobes.  Outfits included (but were not limited to) neon shirts, flags, rain pants, onesies, hair even wackier than usual, and sports bras worn over shirts; we even had a visit from “Flava Flav.”  After we made our costumed appearance, the competition really began. We were tested on overhand knots, figure eight knots, bowline knots, double fisherman’s knots, girth hitches, clove hitches, Munter hitches, and prusik hitches. The judges were “celebrities” and completely “unbiased” – otherwise known as our favourite field staffers.  When it was widely advertised that the judges accepted bribes, Snickers bars and brownies seemed to be shared freely.  Before we knew, it people were tying knots while singing, doing pushups and yoga, dancing, sitting on each other’s shoulders, and wearing blindfolds.  The cook shack – packed with students, staff, and faculty – felt as if it could have fallen down with laughter. Everyone had fun, and it was a great reminder of the JIRP bonding that attracted many of us to the program.

Look at those smiles

Look at those smiles

Some definite contenders of the costume competition.

Some definite contenders of the costume competition.


Perspective of a visiting professor to the JIRP

by Dr. Karen Grove, Professor of Geology (specialization in sedimentology), San Francisco State University, San Francisco, CA

As a geology professor with 25 years of experience, one of the highlights of the JIRP is the 33 student participants who have chosen to stretch themselves beyond their comfort zones. They are learning to do research in a harsh environment, which includes numerous days of safety training and learning a variety of techniques to investigate the glacial environment, often in inclement weather that includes cold and very wet conditions. But always the attitude has remained positive and the curiosity to learn high. For me, it’s like taking my top students from over the years and putting them together in one class---a total joy!! The students are pursuing degrees (mostly undergraduate, but a few graduate) in a variety of Earth Science fields, but all are enthused about the ice field and the opportunities to expand their horizons. No doubt, we’ll be hearing more from them as they continue in their education and subsequent careers. It’s a bright and highly motivated group of young people that gives one hope for our planet’s future.

What does a visiting professor do? For me, it’s the first time to the Juneau Icefield, and so I’m doing the safety training along with the students. For my husband Jay, who was a JIRP student in 1973 and 1975, it’s a refresher course and a chance to reprise a life-altering experience. We also assist with the educational mission as much as we can. We provide perspectives from our areas of expertise.  For me, this has included informal discussions about geology, leading a field group to describe the rocks Camp 17 is built upon, and giving lectures on the geologic record of global climate change during the past 60 million years. Jay has provided perspectives on how to manage projects (including the students’ research projects) and used his photography skills to document JIRP activities. Some professors/researchers come here with their own specific research goals; they include students on their team and teach them how to do the investigations. We feel like one big expedition that is collaborating to accomplish common goals. Most visiting professors stay for several weeks of the 8-week-long program. Although I at first resisted spending two summer weeks on a cold and windy ice field, the students have made the experience well worth the effort. The scenery of rugged, glacially-sculptured mountains is quite a draw too!

Faculty geologist Karen Grove during safety training week.  Photo by Jay Ach

Faculty geologist Karen Grove during safety training week.  Photo by Jay Ach


Life at C-17

by Lizzie Kenny

After more than a week at Camp 17, everyone has settled into camp life.  Wake-up call is at 7:30, which is when the most important question of the day is asked: “Is it raining?” The answer is usually “yes”, but we have been lucky enough to have a few clear sunny days.

The day begins at 8 with breakfast – unless you are one of the chefs, in which case you have to be in the kitchen bright and early at 6, as cooking for more than 50 people is no easy task. After breakfast comes work detail, and everyone chips in to do chores around camp. Daily chores typically include cleaning the outhouses, fixing the water supply (shoveling snow onto tarps which will later melt for water), refrigerator maintenance (making sure the food is guarded from ravens – also known as “glacier dragons”), sweeping the buildings, picking up little bits of trash around camp, and setting out trail lunches.

After all the chores are done, it is time to head out to the glacier! We have mostly been doing safety training and improving our skiing in order to prepare for crossing the Icefield. While doing so, we have been exploring the Lemon Creek and Ptarmigan Glaciers. Depending on the day’s activities, we usually head back to camp for lectures at about 15:30. With 9 fabulous faculty members, we always have interesting things to learn about. Lecture topics have included paleoclimate, glacier dynamics, wilderness medicine, and many others. There is occasionally some free time in the afternoon, but we are usually kept pretty busy.

At 19:00, it is time for dinner! On clear days, the majority of people sit outside, enjoying an amazing view of Juneau and the surrounding mountains. The food is always delicious, thanks to the hard work of the chefs.  Brownies have already been made numerous times, much to everyone’s delight. After dinner, there is usually another lecture or knot tying practice, mixed with fun events such as 4th July celebrations or the knot tying competition. And of course, if we are lucky enough to be able to see the sunset, nearly everyone gathers to watch. It’s lights out at 23:00, so we can get enough rest for the next full day. The whole group has become extremely close during our time at 17, and as we prepare to go to the next camp, Camp 10, we are all excited to see what the rest of the summer has in store.

Camp 17 in all of it's glory!

Camp 17 in all of it's glory!

Students gather in the cook shack at C-17.

Students gather in the cook shack at C-17.

Everyone recaps a great day in the cook shack at C-17.

Everyone recaps a great day in the cook shack at C-17.

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JIRPers prepare for a great day of safety training!

JIRPers prepare for a great day of safety training!

JIRP participants enjoy a fabulous sunset.

JIRP participants enjoy a fabulous sunset.

C-17 from above.

C-17 from above.